Day 9 – Kozhikode to Kannur

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Modern Day Kappad Beacgh

Kappad Beach

The first stop of the day was at Kappad beach. It required me to take a diversion from the highway. I had no specific reason to be there but just wished to be there. The beach was small and my only observation was a rock filled with political advertisements. Subsequenttly, I found that Vasco Da Gama touched the Indian shores for the first time at this place before heading to Goa. I believe that the place also has a small memorial for him, which I did not spot.

House of P.T. Usha

Payyoli Express

The next town that I reached was Quilandi and it was followed by Payyoli. Payyoli is synonymous with the legendary runner P.T.Usha, nicknamed ‘Payyoli Express’. Before reaching Payyoli, I enquired someone if it will be possible for me to go to her house and meet her. I was also keen on visiting her athletics school. The athletics school was located in Quilandi, which I had already crossed. I was informed that she is generally friendly to meet people at her house subject to her availability. After making few more enquires, I managed to find her house and knock the door. Alas, she wasn’t in the town and had gone to Palakkad for some work. It was another instance of ‘so near, yet so far’! I have a deep admiration for P.T.Usha and her achievements. Critics might sight her inability to win medals at International. It was largely due to the fact that the peak of her career coincided with the dominance of East Europeans and Americans in athletics. Most world records in women track and field were set during that period (so was the rise of doping scandals). Once cannot find fault with her for unable to rise to that level. Women’s sports are rarely given importance in this part of the world even today. One has to admire her determination and hard work in the 1980s to change that mindset. In many ways, she is the pioneer of women’s track and field in India. I believe that she is in process of preparing few champions through her athletics school.

Bridge similar to the Napier Bridge on Coovum

After Payyoli, I had to cross a bridge which resembled the Napier bridge on beach road in Chennai. On a closer observation, I noticed that the bridge has been constructed by one ‘Gannon Dunkerly & Co.’ based in Chennai in 1938. There were few more of such bridges from that point onwards which resembled the same design and built by the same company. The lunch was at Vadakara – another exotic old-fashioned restaurant serving unlimited food at a very cheap rates.

Mahe, Pondicherry State

Visit to Mahe

The evening started with visit to the erstwhile French territory of Mahe which now forms a part of the Pondicherry state. It was very small area running for about 6 Km in length. I could also spot a PRTC Bus which was heading to Puducherry from there. It was followed by a conversation with the driver of the bus about the route. Since, he was familiar in Tamil, I could pick up a conversation with him. I often wondered the rationale for having a separate state in Pondicherry and the existence of Mahe seems to strengthen that. It must be costing the administration a lot to govern a small region remotely from Puducherry. Is it any relevant to have a separate state merely because the territory was ruled by a different European nation in the past? Except for a few remaining French buildings, Mahe does not seem to possess anything special to make it unique from the rest of the coastal Kerala.

Moidoo Bridge near Tellicherry

It was another ‘rain-filled’ evening. I had already crossed Tellicherry and the next big town was Kannur. I was a bit lucky to be closer to Kannur when the rains started pouring in. I took refuge near a shop where I met a group of Tamil labourers. They have travelled all the way from Kallakurichi (near Salem) in Tamil Nadu to Kannur to earn their livelihood. It pains to see that people need to travel so far to earn a basic wage. Hopefully, the job generation schemes of the Government will arrest these distress migrations.

I finally reached Kannur after fighting hard over few gradients. I found a place to stay and looked out for a vegetarian restaurant, which seems to be very rare in Northern Kerala. I eventually found a Komala Vilas hotel where I had my dinner and also the breakfast next day.

The Route

Kozhikode – West Hill – Kappad – Quilandi – Payyoli – Vadakara – Mahe – Tellicherry – Edakkad – Kannur

Day 8 - EditedMore pictures from the day here

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